Thank you for your patronage this past year. The shears have been sharpened, the sewing threads waxed, the fabric is resting and our hands are recovering and we look forward to welcoming you in the new year from the 10th of January 2014.

Happy holidays!

Where there is a wheel, there is a way...

"When we were told it's impossible, we knew it's the right way to be done." - Joe Sutter (Manager of the design team of the Boeing 747)

 

Andre Spence, remember that name!

Andre posing in our window for some press pictures.

Vintage Social Networking

Regent Street Motor Show

A very grand sounding name for turning Regent street in to a car park, nevertheless one got to see quite a few Aston Martins (A century of Aston Martin), a handful of Porsche 911s (half a century of 911s) and bizarrely some Renaults.

Among the highlights was a DB5 Volante - the convertible version of the Aston featured in the film Goldfinger, another silver birch DB5 - as in Goldfinger, and this rather fetching Vanquish with red details:

There were of course the usual DB9, DB7,DB6, a DB4, V8, Lagonda, Vantage, Vanquish....
Thankfully working in Mayfair, one is surrounded by these cars on a daily basis.

Our friend Daniel brought along "Kermit". Kermit is a kermit the green version of the infamous Ruf CTR Yellowbird. Having never seen one in the flesh, it was quite something. Admittedly it looks quite ordinary, and the inside isn't covered in seal skin nor does it have a disco ball inside nor an espresso machine, but it does have a very special heart.

Introduced for the 1987 model year and based on the Porsche 911, the CTR featured an enlarged and highly tuned version of Porsche's 3.2 litre flat-six cylinder engine, lightened body panels, an integrated roll cage (adding chassis stiffness in addition to occupant safety), upgraded suspension and braking systems, a custom-designed transmission, and several unique trim pieces.

Much attention was given to aerodynamic considerations, with the body being de-guttered/seam welded and the use of filler panels for the door pillars and 935-style mirrors. Prototype models had NACA-style intercooler intake ducts over the rear fenders (later dropped, as it was discovered that air was pulled out, rather than in, at speed due to a low-pressure area), while later models had additional slots in the rear bumper corners for the air to exit.

Developing 469 hp (350 kW) and 408 lb·ft (553 N·m) of torque and weighing in it at only 2,580 pounds (1,170 kg), the CTR provided stellar performance, with a 0-60 mph time of around 3.7 seconds and a top speed in excess of 200 miles per hour (320 km/h). Although a small group of vehicles such as the Ferrari F40 and Porsche 959 were faster to 60 miles per hour (97 km/h), the Yellowbird could outperform all competition when it came to top speed, topping out at 211 miles per hour (340 km/h), a top speed that made it the fastest sports car in the world at the time of its release.

The car received its nickname, "Yellowbird", during testing by Road & Track magazine, whose staffers noted the contrast created by its yellow paintwork against the overcast skies on the day of their photo shoot.

The CTR (abbreviation of "Group C Turbo Ruf") was based on the 1987 911 Carrera 3.2 as opposed to the 930, Porsche's factory turbocharged version of the 911, a decision made because of the 3.2's slightly lower curb weight and drag coefficient. Factory body panels including the doors, hood and engine cover were replaced with aluminum pieces, helping to knock an additional 200 kg (441 lb) off the vehicle's factory curb weight. Shaved rain gutters to reduce drag, fiberglass front and rear bumpers and a pair of intake ducts on the rear flares to allow airflow to the intercoolers topped the list of body modifications. The rear arches were also increased in width very slightly to accommodate the larger speedline wheels.

In addition to the lighter panels, considerable modifications were made to the engine, including boring the cylinders out to 98 mm (3.9 in) to increase displacement from 3.2 to 3.4 litres, adding an uprated Bosch Motronic fuel injection system, and switching to the ignition setup originally designed for the Porsche 962 race car. A specifically designed turbo system featuring two large turbochargers and twin intercoolers topped the engine work, bringing total output to 469 hp (350 kW) and 408 lb·ft (553 N·m) of torque at 5950 rpm. The sound from the blow-off valve was also curiously close to the chirp of a canary, helping the name "yellowbird" stick.

Ruf CTR Yellowbird powerplant.

At the time, Porsche offered the 911 3.2 with a 5-speed manual transmission, but the 930 featured only a 4-speed transmission, chosen because it was the only unit manufactured by the company that could handle the turbocharged engine's high output. Not content with only four forward gears and unable to satisfactorily modify the 5-speed unit, Ruf choose to use a new five-speed transmission of their own design on the CTR, which also gave them full freedom to customize gear ratios. To ensure absolute control, an upgraded suspension system, 17 inch Ruf Speedline alloy wheels, 330 mm (13.0 in) diameter Brembo braking system, and Dunlop's Denloc system performance tires were used.

The company debuted the vehicle at the end of 1987 with pricing set at $223,000 per unit, although that number could vary depending on whether a given customer ordered their car directly from Ruf or brought in a unit purchased via dealer for conversion. Ruf made only 29 CTRs from chassis bought from Porsche; most of the CTRs produced were converted from existing customers' Carreras.

Petrol in the veins since childhood....

A few of us petrol heads may remember this from our childhood, it certainly made an impact on me.

A mention in today's Financial Times How to Spend it Section

 Featuring our stingray cardholder:

Velvet Dinner Jacket

A classic reinterpreted for the modern day and worn by a certain poker player with a weeping eye in Casino Royale, this velvet dinner jacket is for the Alpha penguin.  

Created by Mr. Udeshi, who was fed up of looking like one of the other penguins, he chose sumptuous Italian velvet and black silk facing from the oldest family owned mill in England and created this jacket in the house style. The jacket loosens up stiff black tie functions and can be worn casually with a white shirt and one’s favourite pair of jeans, from £975.00

Opera Coat

Unfortunately dressing up for the opera or theatre is a thing of the past for most people. For those who still do, this might just be the coat one needs. 

The coat features deep double vents that split open when walking up stairs, giving the impression of the coat almost to flying up the stairs, like Neo's coat in the Matrix but without the cheesiness. 

The inset velvet details are borrowed from coats from over a century ago as worn by a certain playwright who shared the same first name as Mr. Udeshi.  £1795.00

Piped Dinner Suit

An alternative to the classic dinner jacket with satin or grosgrain lapels, piped lapels are a little different, a little edgier in our opinion. With the detail repeated on the flapped slant pockets nicely complementing the lapels, this is a subtle way to stand out in the sea of penguins. A matching waistcoat adds a further dash of elegance. 

Two piece dinner suit from £1375.00, three piece from £1625.00

Salt Fever...

From Petrolicious:

There are many ways to enjoy your toys, from driving, to racing, to keeping them in a collection, there are various avenues to gaining pleasure from what you own. For Bob Sirna, this comes from racing at the salt flats of Bonneville. Many different types of cars run at Bonneville, but Bob chooses a car that you wouldn't ever expect to be racing, let alone down a strip of metal-eating salt: a Mercedes-Benz 300SL Gullwing. Now fetching over a million dollars, the 300SL is a car that you mainly see at a concourse or in a museum—not trying to break land speed records at Speed Week. For the last 12 years Bob has been bringing his Gullwing to the salt in an effort to break records and cure his "salt fever." Bob likes to say, "Enjoy your toys," and this is a motto we can stand behind.

Traditional Black Tie

Traditional black tie calls for satin or grosgrain lapels on a black single breasted peak lapel or double breasted jacket. The Duke of Windsor opted for midnight blue claiming it looked blacker than black under artificial light, as black took on a greenish hue supposedly. Dyeing of fabric has progressed a fair bit, and the only green one will see is the faces of people green with envy, as this suit actually fits the wearer and is not a rental or a hand me down.

Two piece dinner suit from £1395.00, three piece from £1625.00 

Looking Back....

Casual Black Tie

Yes, sounds like a paradox, but it is amazing the growing number of expressions attempting to define or describe a certain dress code that leaves the guest as clueless as the host who extended the invitation. For those occasions and many more, this is our version of "casual black tie". An unstructured (no shoulder pads, no canvas) jacket made in high twist english woven "Rangoon" fabric, with a skull and cross bone motif on the outside breast pocket. The jacket is available to order in other colours and with other motifs.

Paired with a dinner shirt with rounded collar and cocktail cuffs, this shirt is also a contradiction, but together they work. Dress jeans also available.

Black high twist "Rangoon" wool piped club jacket                                           £895.00
Round collar marcella dress shirt with cocktail cuffs                                         £205.00
Black self tie (what else?) satin bow tie                                                           £  55.00

Camelhair Cardigan - golden retriever and pipe optional

Mr. Udeshi fought against cardigans for the longest time, but they are just so damn comfortable, easy going and can be thrown in a corner (okay placed carefully in a corner) and come out more or less wrinkle free.

Knitted for us in Scotland in fine camelhair in a tapered fit, our camelhair cardigan is ideal for taking a dog (or a cigar) for a walk, or entertaining at home around the fireplace. Be careful - partners love stealing this garment and making it disappear in their wardrobe. £375.00

Casentino è arrivato

CASENTINO WOOL, A TUSCAN TRADITION

Known to avid followers of style blogs, people who have visited Florence in winter and Florentines, Casentino is not for the faint hearted, even less so in this traditional “Goose beak” colour. It makes a statement and then some, and then some again. Traditionally lined in wool, our version is a little more fitted, a little more elegant and with double vents easier to sit down in while basking in the winter sun, sipping an espresso at Gilli on Piazza della Repubblica (toscanello optional).

The look would not be complete without peccary gloves, another Florentine specialty – we are probably the only place that stocks four colours in the United Kingdom (so three more colours than anybody else).

For those who have the “palle”, goose beak, otherwise also available to order in chestnut, chocolate, bottle green, navy…..

Becco d’oca Casentino overcoat lined in wool                    £1495.00

Purple Casentino double breasted overcoat                      £1395.00

Milanese blue vintage cotton shirt                                   £  195.00

Cashmere neck scarf                                                      £    95.00

Peccary gloves handmade in England                              £  205.00

A short history of Casentino Wool

In the 14th century, a thick wool cloth was produced in the Casentino valley of Tuscany. The Florentine wool guild commissioned producers in this area to carry out a finishing process for them, but prohibited them from making highly refined wools for themselves in order to prevent competition to Florence and Prato’s wool industries, Casentino wool was used for monks’ habits, to cover animals, and was worn by peasants. The rough but warm cloth came originally in brown and dark grey.

In the mid 19th century, with the industrial revolution, they experimented with synthetic colouring, an error led to the creation of a bright orange (becco d'oca – GOOSE BEAK) wool that became characteristic of this fabric. With time, it became very fashionable, and other colours were introduced, including the second most common Casentino colour, a green the hue of the felt on pool tables. By the 1950s Casentino fabric was in high fashion, worn by aristocrats and actors as a symbol of Italian fashion.

The characteristic curls on the surface of Casentino cloth, which make it warm, water repellent, seem at first glance to be piling, but were originally a manual carding process using dried thistles inserted inside the loom. The industrial process replaced thistles with metal combs, which produced the same effect.

Wise words

For Francoise

Interesting Quote:

20 BRITISH WORDS THAT MEAN SOMETHING TOTALLY DIFFERENT IN THE U.S.

Taken from this post a friend sent to me.

Here in the United States, we speak the same language as our ye old predecessors in Great Britain, but we don't always speak it the same way. So, we asked our oh-so British receptionist, Ryan Lovett, to give us a crash course in some of the more notable discrepancies.

Here are 20 words (along with some accompanying Bigstock images) that have pretty 

different meanings in Great Britain than they do in the U.S. 

1. Jumper 

2. Trainer 

3. Pants

4. Bird

5. Bog

6. Rubber

7. Braces

8. Trolley

9. Chips

10. Coach

11. Biscuit

12. Shag

13. Dummy

14. Lift

15. Hooker

16. Flannel

17. Football

18. Hamper

19. Vest

20. God Save the Queen!